Condensation problems 

Condensation problem

All properties have codnnsation, but most properties have sufficient ventilation to dry out condensation before it causes a problem.

Condensation results from excess vapour condensing of a cold surface, at or below the dew point.

Humidity

There are three parts to the equation;

  1. humidity,
  2. temperature and
  3. ventilation,

Each one can cause and problem or resolve it.

Common problem

Vapour condensing into water on cold surfaces is the most common form of dampness in the home. It is most prevalent on the lower surfaces of external ground floor walls. Warm moist air from a kitchen, bathroom, washing machine or drying clothes will condense rapidly when meeting a cold external wall, window or pipe. Add to this humid breath from human and pets.

Cold spots

A wall will be relatively cold at the point where both skins of a cavity wall meet. This is most pronounced at the base of a ground floor wall, which is often more than 5°C cooler than the ambient temperature. The temperature differential can be much greater at night.

Most vulnerable areas

  1. cold water mains pipes,
  2. around edge of top floor rooms (by poorly insulated eaves),
  3. cold and poorly ventilated roof and sub-floor voids,
  4. cold spots such as north facing or shaded walls,
  5. near any embedded metal object (such as old gas lighting piping).
  6. external metal downpipes and supporting brackets,
  7. on and below windows,
  8. by openings, especially the cold section of wall by a door or window
  9. anywhere near a poorly ventilated bathroom, kitchen or laundry room,
  10. by double glazing, often with cold metal frames or without ventilation (many occupier don’t know how to open ajar on the safety lock).

Dew point

The dew point is the temperature that water starts to condense. Humid air from a warm moist kitchen readily condenses on the cooler surfaces of external walls. Typically, a surface only has to be 5°C lower than the ambient temperature for condensation to start to form.

Insulation

Glass and metal are good conductors of heat and therefore lose thermal energy much more rapidly than timber, brick or plaster. Condensation runs down cold windows and frames onto walls beneath them. Metal objects embedded in walls such as behind an electrical socket, cable or pipe can initiate condensation. Cold metal can cause condensation, even in summer.

Ventilation

Although condensation is inevitable, it can be manged with ventilation out at source, combined with sufficient heat, air circulation and regular wiping of wet surfaces.

Drying clothes

Ideally clothes should be dried outside, or with an externally vented clothes drier. Double glazed windows should have trickled vents kept open.

An alternative is to designate wet areas, then manage humidity in those wet areas, by wiping off surface moisture and opening windows often. Victorians used to tile their entrance halls, at the point where cold air meets warm humid air. Bathroom paints and tiles evaporate moisture readily and are easy to wipe down. Top tip; use an electrically heated bathroom mirror.

Passive ventilation

A common mistake is to increase ventilation into a building. This is often counterproductive as the outside air is likely to be cooler than the warm moist internal air, and will cause, rather than alleviate condensation. Positive flow ventilation systems do not necessarily reduce condensation.

Interstitial condensation

In the worst cases, condensation can form within a wall. This is known as interstitial condensation. If the temperature is too warm to condense water vapour and the air outside it more than cold enough to condense vapour, then within the wall or building there exist a dew line. Vapour absorbed naturally by the building material will condense within the building material. This is called insterstilitial condensation. It is rarely visible and rarely causes a problem.

Cold metal embedded objects

Interstitial condensation is most noticeable when a building is composed of material with varying thermal properties, such as a cold wrought iron downpipes attached to walls or metal joist (RSJ). Water is often seen forming on a cold winter’s night below the steal beam of a roof extension.

Small Roofing Repairs from £60

We have set up this department in light of the current economic climate, to to help reduce our carbon footprint & to save our customers time and money. We ues google street view so we can see the type of tile or Slate you have on your roof before we set off you can help by sending a photo if possible. 

Economic Roof Repairs

We are happy to carry out small roof repairs including; ridge repairs, loose, slipped and missing roof tiles and slates, broken slates, leak repairs, lead flashing and cement work repairs and replacement, plant damage, ivy, moss and tree damage, rotten timer repairs, felt repair and replacement, leaking and broken guttering repairs, as well as repairs to soffits, fascia boards, eves and chimneys.

By sending details of the necessary repair across to us giving us as much information as possible ie: the repair and access available, we will then be able to provide you with a quote to carry out the necessary repair.

This will save you having to sit in waiting for the roofer to turn up, which can’t always happen on time and will help the environment by reducing the amount of fuel being used.

Please contact us and tell us about your roof damage…

07974 443757 phone or text 

 

 

 

 

 lead valley repair and renew. 

 

Here are a few average costs to repair/replace a roof valley:

lEGnTh OF VALLEY REPAIR/REPLACE AVG. COST DURATION
1.5m Repair £350 1/2 a day
1m Replace £450 1 day
3m  Repair £450 1 day
2.5m Replace £750 1 day



 

 If we have to install a Scaffold to carry out repairs we erected our own to keep the cost down. 

Scaffolding, also called scaffold or staging, is a temporary structure used to support a work crew and materials to aid in the construction, maintenance and repair of buildings, and all other man made structures.

you get a better job wen we can reach the job and hold tools in a safe position if we have to remove or repair large areas of the roof a scaffolding is the safest and best way to go and on most jobs we install and repair on the same day. 

 

Types of tile you may have on your roof. Slate can be any size and thickness and we can cut to size on the job.